欢度国庆led点阵怎么设计

大家好，那么大家都知道，在我们的生活当中， led 点证显示屏呢已经是非常的普遍，可以说到处可见。 好，那么实际上呢，这个 ld 显示屏并不是非常的复杂，那么这一节呢，我们就通过一个例子来给大家介绍一下 led 点针显示屏他设计的一些要点，那么我们主要讲解的内容呢，包括下面几个方面。 那么首先呢，我们要了解这个 led 点证显示的一般的方法，那么这个方法主要呢就是采用一种所谓的动态扫描的方法， 那么实际上呢，一个 led 点证显示屏，他即可用来显示简单的数字字母，英文单词， 也可以用来显示一些比较复杂一点点的这个啊汉字的信息。那么更复杂的呢，我们还可以用它来显示一些图像，包括彩色的图像。 好，那如果我们这个像素点它的分辨率足够的高，那么我们甚至呢可以用它来作为我们的电视的屏幕。好，那么实际上呢，这些它显示的原理基本上呢都是一样的啊，它基本上就是采用这个所谓的动态扫描的方法， 那么在这里呢，我们就以一个能够显示一些汉字信息的显示屏为例来给大家做介绍。 好，因此的话呢，我们首先要了解汉字他的点正结构是怎么样的，那么最简单的汉字呢，至少是用一个十六乘十六的 点正来表示他啊，否则的话呢，我们这个呃点数不够，那么他的这个字形呢，就不能够准确的表达出来，那所以呢，我们要了解汉字他的那个呃字形结构，以及他的那个数据表示的方法。 好，然后呢啊我们再来看一下我们这个屏，他的硬件的电路是怎么设计的。好，那么最后呢，我们再来讲一下单边记的程序是怎么编写的。 好，那么我们整一个案例呢，并不是非常的复杂，那只要我们有一定的那个电路的基础，以及呢有一些这个单面机的编写程序的经验，那么就可以了。好，我们先来看一下 我们这个显示屏它的基本要求是怎么样的，那么我们要求我们这个屏它的宽度呢，可以显示四个汉字，那么按照我们刚才所说的， 一个汉字最少要用十六乘十六的点正来表示他，那么我们这个平的宽度，这应该是十六乘以四，那应该就是六十四个点， 那么高度呢高度就是十六个点。好，那么这个就是我们这个平的规格啊。 好，然后呢显示的内容，那我们这边呢主要是为了给大家介绍这个显示的方法，因此呢在内容这一块啊，我们可以呢先把这些内容呢写到程序里面去，那也就是说呢，我们可以通过一个 取模的软件先去对你要显示的内容啊，比如说这个汉字啊进行取模， 那取魔是什么意思呢？取魔的意思就是因为我们这个汉子， 他需要用三十二个字节的数据来表示他在这个点，这里面哪一些点是亮的，哪一些点是不亮的，那取模就是要把他的这些啊数据取出来，这三十二个字节的数据取出来， 然后呢把它保存到程序里面去，那如果我们要修改显示的内容，直接在这个程序里面修改这个汉字的数据就行了，那这是一种最简单的方法啊。 好，那么当然我们也可以用一些呃更接便捷的方法啊，因为这种方法呢，刚才我们说的方法呢，你需要外部的这个取模的软件来完成啊，那如果我们要便捷一点的，我们可以呢 在这个硬件上增加一个智库的芯片，那智库的芯片呢，他是记录了我们这个常用的汉字，几千个汉字他的这些字母的数据的，那当然不同的字体呢，他的这个芯片是不一样的啊，那 我们可以呢通过啊一个区位码来定位你相应的汉字啊，然后呢把它相应的那个三十二个字节的数据呢取出来， 那么我们还可以呢通过手机编写一个小的 app， 那通过程序呢，把我们输入的汉字他的趣味码啊查询出来，然后呢发送到单片机，让单片机呢从字库里面去找到相应的汉字的数据， 好拿来进行显示，那这样的话呢，我们就可以呢，呃，简化我们的操作啊，我们只需要在手机上输入你要显示的内容，然后呢发送过去就可以了， 那么所以的话呢，我们后续还有很多东西可以改进的啊，那么我们这里呢，主要是给大家介绍最基本的东西，最核心的东西 就是啊，包括这几个方面啊，这个屏的硬件是怎么设计的？他的基本的显示是怎么实现的啊？ 啊？然后呢，我们再给大家介绍一下这个屏幕他的滚动显示是怎么实现的，那例如说我们这里面 是从屏幕的右边进来向左滚动，那这样的话呢，呃，我们增加更多的内容，那么我们这个屏就可以呢，把这些内容都可以显示出来， 那这个呢都是一些最基本的一些啊方法，我们介绍一些思路给大家，那么大家呢就是参考我们的思路呢，可以自己呢进行开发啊，也还可以实现更多的那个这个动态显示的方式。

have you ever wanted an led matrix on your ear lobe no well， let's make it happen anyway following my led industrial piercing we were left with these 0201 leds which are so small that inhaling them is a very real danger we also found these off the shelf led stud earrings so the idea for this project was simple really just replace that single led and plastic gemstone with as many o21 leds as we possibly can it just so happens that i was playing with led matrices not so long ago for the volumetric display quite a few people asked me where i got this matrix from and the answer is i made it it was designed in caicad ordered from china and then assembled on my pick and place machine it is unusual to be able to justify having a pick and place machine in your house this isn't mine i've borrowed it for a very specific project which i will post eventually， but that board has dozens of unique components and loading these reels takes ages once the machine is set up it can crank out circuit boards like there's no tomorrow but that initial setup is what takes time for that reason i wouldn't normally use this to build a one off circuit board， but the thing about an led matrix is that it only has one unique component the setting of the machine to produce it is as quick as it could possibly be the solar stencil was made on my k40 laser cutter and in a sense this machine is the k40 of the pick and placed world borrowed it， but i looked up how much it constant really that is very cheap for an industrial robot on the other hand it's a little more than a glorified 3d printer it picks up components with a vacuum novel holds them over a camera and uses open cv to find the outline to correct their position there was no reason not to produce several of these boards one of them went to the volumetric display prototype and the rest we can do whatever we like with i'd residently started playing around with the ch32v003 that's the very cheap risk 5 microcontroller and so for fun i wired up one of those to it here's a little animation made in blender the chip only has 16 kilobytes of memory so we can't store much video data on it we can extend that by reducing the bit depth i've given it a bit depth of four which you can't really see after gamma correction it doesn't equate to we could put this all on board and make loads of them for very little money the microcontroller is like 15p and the leds are less than a quarter of a penny each what could we do with hundreds of tiny self contained led matrixes potentially we could cover a jacket in leds with matrix boards arranged like plate male i'm not sure how you address them or maybe you don't need to address them if the animation was cell based and it just passed a signal to the neighboring boards it could be very cool well for now all i've done is stick a battery and a pin on the back to turn it into a badge this is directly inspired by my carison's clashing led badge， which is far more clever than what i've done here if you want more details on this i've put a page up on my website mitsello comm batch but what this video is supposed to be about is the earring the reason i'm showing the batch is that it demonstrates some of the difficulty of doing in led matrix on a two layer board， we have a grid of fires and a series of row and column connections that means that putting any components on the back it's very difficult because you just have no room to root anything i've managed to cheat here and squeeze the battery connection in between the traces， but that's only possible because it's one big pad there's no fine pitch connections the batch has a three millimeter pitch grid of 0603 leds for the earring， we're going to try and do a one millimeter pitch grid of 0201 leds and we're also going to try and put the microcontroller on the back， we don't want any other parts on the front and we don't want the thick border was not even able to do a basic layout of o20180s at one millimeter pitch within a six mill process these fires have a drill diameter of 9.25 millimeters so we've already pushed ourselves into the second price category and there is no way we can possibly put parts on the back of this adding more layers doesn't really help one option is hdi that's with blind or buried virus， but then we're looking at a significant cost increase hundreds of dollars just for a small run and the cheapest hdi stacket still isn't ideal for what we want to do here ideally， we want staggered blind virus， which is of course possible， but it's the kind of thing you need to request a quote for i've no idea how much it costs so to keep things within our hobbiest budget let's construct our own four layer board with blind virus by sandwiching two two layer boards with interconnects as a land grid array we've got two designs in the same panel and the panel has symmetrical mounting holes the led array is just that the outline is 9 millimeters in diameter and the back of it brings the row and column connections to a series of 0.5 millimeter pads the other board has a matching set of pads it deliberately only aligns in one orientation and this supports the breast of the circuit which consists of just our ch32v003 and a three millimeter square package these big pants and i used to turn big relatively since the one millimeter in diameter these are power ground are one wire serial debug and the reset pin just for the sake of it i got a proper solder stencil this time because at this scale the curf of my laser is inconsistent it's not expensive to get a frame stencil and you can put several designs in the same thing i'll start by building another one of these badges， so i can demonstrate the process for a normal circuit this is solder pieced it's a mixture of powdered solder and flux we line up the stencil and then squeegee the paste onto the board when the board is this small it's hard to avoid the stencil bending so i have not on a very clean job over there， but the whole reason we use this process is because in general it's very forgiving next we clamp the board in the pick and place machine and if we want to be really fancy we can calibrate the position of it i stepped the first couple of components manually just to check everything's okay picks up the part visually confirms how it's holding it and places it on the board when we're ready we just go for it this footage is in real time and the machine is running at 50 percent speed， so it can go twice as fast if we dare i've also told it to only use one head， but if we mounted the same vacuum nozzle on both heads then we could double the throughput that way and for a board like this we don't even need the vision so if i turned off the visual checking that would usually speed it up too， but as it is it took just under two minutes to make this board and for the final two parts i can't be bothered to load the wheels into the machine so i shall place these by hand i do have a reflow oven but for your viewing pleasure i'm going to do it with a hot air gun so you can see what happens the beauty of sold paste is that the capillary effect fixes most alignment problems everything just magically snapped into place the downside of using a heat gun is that it's easy to overheat parts you can see the top of the switch starting to melt and here's a close up of the result despite my messy stenciling the result is pretty much perfect so easy so cheap now let's do the same thing but three times smaller here are the boards and the first step is to sandwich two of them together i forgot to film this process， but here's a picture of the stenciled paste on one of the boards i just placed one on the other and refloded we could have done this with a higher temperature solder， so it's less likely to come apart where we reflow this repeatedly， but i didn't think it was likely to be a problem i built the first circuit off camera for the second one it's now even more difficult to check the stencil alignment i even added fiducials to the panel， but forgot to add them to the stencil while the first one stenciled reasonably well it left a residue in the holes which i pound very difficult to clean i probably should have gone for a thinnest stencil and used a fine a grade of solar paste or even just to clean the stencil properly， i think the way to do it is just soak it in nice appropriate and then clear the holes with compressed air in the interest of laziness， i decided to plow ahead with however one could politely describe this mess it's a bit too small to be doing manual corrections， but that didn't stop me from trying to dab more solar onto the worst offenders this will work it just may not be quite as uniform as the first one and into the machine it's not in shot， but i'm using another one of the boards at the other end of the clamp to keep it parallel i'm calibrating using the vision system， which has the capability to be quite accurate， but this interface makes it very difficult to be precise to be fair we are operating well beyond the stated speck of the machine so maybe this would normally be considered good enough， but it would be much easier if we could just type in the numbers instead of having to hold down a jog button i fitted the very smallest vacuum， nozzle and unlike the others it seems to have an oblong shape the head has full rotational control of the nozzle， but there isn't normally a zero position it's just a smooth magnetic collet so all i did was visually line this up with the orientation of the parts the nozzle does appear to be able to pick up the o2 or one part which wasn't clear before i tried it after placing the first component we then need to worry about polarity the only way to check this is to get out of magnifying glass and look for the cathode another problem i encountered is that the parts are so small they would jump out of the tape as the tape is advanced and the protective film is pulled back that causes quite a bit of vibration and some of them just ping off and i've never seen again the pick and place machine is able to detect when it hasn't picked up apart and has three reattempts before giving up and asking for help which is kind of cute the thing that made it reliably grabbed these o two or one parts was altering the position of where it picks them up there's an offset parameter i just made sure it picked up the part as close as possible to be where the film is peeled back the default distance is four millimeters the vision system does seem to be acknowledging the outline and correcting for it it's interesting that this machine doesn't actually know how big any of the parts are supposed to be it just draws a box around whatever， it sees whether it's a no two or one led or a 48 pin microcontroller i originally had some problems with stray light affecting the cameras， but i fixed that by adding some black tape around them it's nice that you can click step to advance slowly it takes four steps to place apart， but at some point we need to stop being a pussy and just go for it it's interesting that in that tray of stray parts next to it you can see a sot 23 component which is the same size as the at 99 used in the charlie star project i remember when that was considered small here we can see how it's placed the parts at a one millimeter pitch it's pretty impressive i reflowed it with the hot hair cut but got a little too close and one of the parts bill way i fix this with a pair of tweezers， but unfortunately put my hand right in front of a camera it's because of that uneven solar paste that the grid now looks a lot more wonky， but so long as they work i don't care the wonk is only visible andrew a microscope now we go for the third and final round of stenciling placing the part reflowing i'm doing this on a fiberglass mat with the very game of stopping the rest of it from heating up too much the heat from the heat gun is very one sided so it's not really a problem to this we add some wire and finally the display springs to life this display is tiny i'm mainly doing this for the technical challenge to see if building something like this at home is possible and i'm not gonna complain that that was too easy but that was a lot easier than i expected while i cut this out of the frame we do need to think about what we wanted to display the spinning triangle is cool， but was only meant to be a test it's very difficult to get this to appear on video the way it does in real life under the studio lights and a macro lens it seems somewhat mundane， but it's like this magical tiny disk with a very bright led display on it we could make it scroll some text it is mesmerizing， but not really the aesthetic i was hoping for another option is blinking lights where the phase and frequency of each blink is randomized they start out together then evolve into a chaotic sparkle well the good thing about this one wire debug protocol is that it possible will be it fiddly to be programmed this even after we fully assembled it so we can delay all our decisions until the very end let's prepare the stud start by yanking out the gemstone and inside of there is a tiny circuit board it's got one led and one resistor those need to go so i'll attack them with a soldering iron we've got a lot of room in there so i decided to add some capacitors possibly not necessary， but certainly won't do any harm there are so many things i could do to make this less fidly， but that looks fine continue we trim and tin the wires on the back of the board and then gently coax them into the desired positions when i built the first one it was at this point that i found it didn't work see that tiny alkaline battery is perfectly capable of lighting up one led， but had done a while surprised at asking it to light up 52 leds and a 48 megahertz processor didn't work the circuit was just drawing too much power and the chip kept rebooting i dropped a power used its significantly by lowering the clock speed to one megahertz and also lowering the duty title for the leds write down to less than one percent and let's be honest the original leds were far too bright we want something that people want to look at not shield their eyes from finally we need to set the circuit within the prongs and if you want to learn about gemstone setting this video is probably not the place to look i'm just using a pair of tweezers and my fingers， but it's very hard to get this on camera jewelers have invented various ways to hold earrings while you're working on them so next time i will try and do it properly and with that you would think the earring is complete unfortunately during my setting attempt i slipped and knocked off one of the leds which is obviously unacceptable some rework is in order at times like these， i do sometimes result to wrapping thin copper wire around my soldering iron and shaping it into a disposable tip you need to wrap this very tightly if you want it to work this is gauge 21 wire or about 9.7 millimeters diameter so we need to file it down to a point start by removing the remains of the broken led give it some flux yes， i do occasionally use flux and this particular situation seems to call for dual wielding tweezers and soldiering iron nice given how fragile the display is i should probably give it a dollop of epoxy for protection， but i'm not sure i can be bothered further signaling my extreme laziness i 3d printed a slightly modified copy of the case that i made for the industrial piercing then you can stick the two earrings inside like that i don't know how clearly this came across so far but i'm not fully convinced anyone would want to wear these there are fantastic technical achievement， but not necessarily a fantastic bit of jewelry they also don't have a particularly good battery life with the more expensive sr521 coin cells you'd get maybe an hour and a half of use ideally light up jewelry should last for a whole evening i guess i could make the leds even dimmer， but the way to really extend battery life is to have the animation reactive instead of on all the time it would only respond to music or movement etc i am pleased with the tiny display though i'm thinking it doesn't have to be an earring it could be a cuffling or a shirt button or even a false fingernail， do we want led text scrolling along our fingernails i don't know having said all that that it wasn't hard to convince my talented ear model to don these earrings and show them off be worn once， i get the hang of stenciling it cleanly and reliably i should be able to turn out tiny led matrices quite easily so i will have a think about what the best direction to take this is i do however have a large backlog of video footage to edit i need to carefully split my time between doing new interesting projects and documenting things i've already done as always there is plenty more information and source code on my website mitzalla com。

命凭本事混口饭 算命的小神仙， 小到我需要在凌霄。 明白是混口饭 算命的小神仙呐， 不挂来换旧情， 请叫我 郭大 话算命凭本事混口饭， 小到我需要在凌霄殿给太上老君点歌， 满是混口饭。

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小伙伴们大家好，今天我们将一起来认识八乘以八的 led 点震屏， 并利用这块点震屏来显示一个图案。 led 点震屏简称点震屏，是利用多个 led 按照矩阵的形式均匀排列构成的一种显示模块， 可以用来显示文字、图像、动画等，因此也被广泛的运用到广告屏、公告牌等情节。点正屏根据像素颜色的数目可以分为单色屏、双色屏和全彩屏，即由三级色 led 组成的。想了解 rgbled 的同学可以查看我的上期视频。 当我们拿到一块八乘以八点正平时，他的外形是这样的，现在先找到有文字的一面，并面向自己，这就是他的正面。仔细观察会发现正面会有一个小凸起，大概在这里，如果文字看不清楚，我们还可以用这个方法来判断他的正面。而 点正平的拐角排列顺序为，从左边开始是一号银角，按照逆时针的方向依次为一到十六号角。 接下来我们可以看到 led 点震屏内部是由六十四个 led 锁组成，总共由十六条管角进行控制，每一个 led 都是放在航线和列线的交叉点上，航线和列线的交叉就类似于一个绝对坐标，依靠这个坐标就可以精准的控制我们需要点亮的 led。 通常大家所说的供音级点振屏和供阳级点振屏是根据点振屏航线的第一个引角提醒来决定。如果第一个引脚是供阳，那我们就称之为供阳点振屏， 反之则为供应急点正品。如果是供应急点正品，那么我们在某条航线上给一个高电瓶信号，某条列线上给一个低电瓶信号，那么航线和列线交叉的位置上 led 灯珠就会点亮，而供阳极的灯珠点亮方式则和供应极的灯珠点亮方式相反。 现在我们 以供应及举例，当把内部结构图与实物图重合后，以点阵屏左上角为其视频，从上往下依次是，二一、二二二三二四二五二六二七、二八。从 往右则是， c 一、 c 三、 c 四、 c 五、 c 六、 c 七、 c 八。如果在十三线输入高电瓶信号，九线输入低电瓶信号，此时点震屏则会在左上角的 c 一二一位置亮起一颗灯珠。如果我想在 c 二二一的位置点亮一颗灯珠，应该在几号线输入高电瓶，几号线给低电瓶呢？ 暂停三秒钟，想一想，三二一，是的，如果在 c 二二一位置亮起一颗灯珠，那么就应该在三号线给高电瓶，九号线给低电瓶。 到这里，基本上我们知道了点阵平针脚和灯珠之间的对应关系。现在我们就可以根据 每个针脚可以点亮的不同位置，将一到十六号针脚标注一个坐标，来帮我们快速的定位需要点亮的 led 灯珠。 点正屏显示图案或文字的方式有两种，静态扫描显示和动态扫描显示。首先，静态扫描显示是只需要同时控制各个 led 进行亮面操作的方法。比如我们需要在八乘以八的点缀上显示一个效果， 那么我就需要用到六十四个端口，每个端口对应一个 led 位置，在图案对应位置上的 led 执行点亮的操作，其他位置则关闭，就能得到我们想要的结果。虽然简单快捷，但却需要用到很多端口， 因此我们更多的是使用动态扫描显示这种方式进行图像文字的显示。其原理主要是利用人眼的视觉暂留特性，将连续的几针画面高速循环显示，并且真素率高于二十四针每秒，那人眼看到的就是一个完整的连续的画面。 因此，我们就可以利用动态扫描的方式，从上到下竹行对点，正品内部的点连，通过断开，通过反复循环这个过程，从而实现文字图像的显示。 以八乘以八点阵举例，我们分解一下他的点亮过程，应该是这样，先移到第一行，然后给出这一行 led 的量或者灭的信号延时关闭后移到第二行，执行上一步的动作，给对应位置 led 量或者灭的信号延时关闭，按照这个顺序不断往下扫描，完成各行显示以后，重复这一过程即可。 当了解完这些基础后，我们就可以开始连接我们的翻地点证明了。需要注意的是，我们需要在八个列线加上限流电阻， 避免因电流过大而损毁我们的 led 灯珠。关于 led 限流电阻的计算，在往期视频有做介绍，这里不再坠数。我选用的是一百欧姆的电阻，没有一百欧姆电阻的同学可以使用其他欧姆的电阻代替，但不建议使用过大或过小的电阻。 推荐范围在一百欧亩到二百二十欧米之间。我使用的是共英记八乘以八点正品幺零八八 vs 总共需要十六个端口，但我所使用的阿迪诺版只有十四个数字端口，因此我要借用部分模拟口当数字口使用， 以下是我的接线方式，我们用十号、十一号、十二号、十三号、 a 零、 a 一、 a 二、 a 三这八个端口来控制点正平的航线，而这八的端口将按照顺序对应点正平二一到二八的针脚。 然后我们用二号、三号、四号、五号、六号、七号、八号、九号这八个端口控制点正平的列线，同样也需要按照顺序来连接点正平 c 一到 c 八的针脚。 当所有接线完成后，我们需要再次检查一下接线是否正确，避免因为接线的问题而导致一些奇奇怪怪的问题产生。 现在整理一下我们的编程思路。首先我们可以在程序正式运行前逐个点亮点正屏的 ad 灯珠，这样可以再次检查我们的接线是否存在问题。接着假设我们用一个数字来存储每一行需要点亮的灯珠， 如用名表示灯珠关闭，用意表示灯珠开启。那么我们是否可以定义一个方法来循环扫描这个数据，并根据对应的值控制每一行的到立顶，只要频率够快，就能够骗过我们的眼睛。最后再定一个方法来清除余晖效应，或者你可以理解为重置点振屏的状态。 思路有了，就准备编写我们的程序。首先根据实际连接的情况声明航线和列线的棱角，然后我用了一个数组存储待会需要显示的图案，每一行八个数字总共有八行，每个数字对应调一滴灯珠的位置， 这样就能抽象的看到一个效果。根据刚才的思路，我利用了循环嵌套的方式来逐行逐猎的给灯珠施加高电瓶低电瓶的信号，用来测试接线和坐标的对应关系是否正确。逐行扫描的方法和重置 led 的方法其实大致类似，都需要用到循环来对每一个 led 灯珠操作。 最后把刚才写的方法拿出来，整合到三档方法和录入方法当中，然后检查一下整个代码无误之后就可以上传到板子里面查看效果。 以下是我的作品效果演示， 以上就是本期视频的全部内容，感谢大家的观看。

哈喽，大家好，我是老图，这节讲 led 点阵的深层次应用。 led 显示屏 我们前面讲了八乘八的点阵，如果有上百个甚至上千个八乘八的点阵，显示效果岂不是更好？没错，这就是 led 显示屏。 led 显示屏是由很多个 led 模块组成的，还有专用的显示电路、直流稳压电路、 框架以及外装饰等，可以显示文字、视频、图像等。户内的 led 屏 是由各种规格的单元显示版组成，户外 led 屏由模组相提组成。 led 显示屏的主体部分是 led 灯及驱动电路， 我们看一下信息传递过程。一个完整的 led 显示屏系统包括主控制器、扫描版、显示控制单元和 led 显示屏体组成。 主控制器将一瓶各像素的各色亮度数据分配给若干块扫描板，每块扫描板负责控制 led 显示屏上的若干行， 而每一行上的 id 显示信号则用串型方式通过本行的各个显示控制单元及连传输。每个显示控制单元直接连接 fd 显示屏体， 我们能看到逼真的图像、文字、视频等。 led 屏它的前端控制还包括主控制器、专用显卡及多媒体卡、电源电脑等， 当然还包括控制软件。所以一套完整的 led 显示屏是包含多种技术的产品。 在这里我们的 led 点证只是其中一部分，但是是最关键的一部分。这一节就讲到这里，下一节再见。